In Saint-Ouen, weekends are set to the rhythm of carts rolling over the cobblestones and the many treasure hunters in search of unique finds. Discover the most iconic flea market in Paris, one of the liveliest and most surprising places in the Paris region.
Here, every alley tells a story : a 1950s sofa, an industrial-style lamp you’ve seen on Instagram, a poster from an old film…
Les Puces is at once an open-air museum, a haven for artists and a place where you can wander and let inspiration guide you.
If you’re staying in one of our Top Hôte accommodations, you’re just minutes away from this legendary neighbourhood.
It’s the perfect spot for a typically Parisian morning, blending flea markets, cosy cafés and local discoveries.
In this article, we’re sharing the team’s favourites: where to browse, where to brunch, where to stroll, and how to enjoy the area like a true Parisian (for a Saturday morning at least 😉)
9:00 AM – Coffee around the Puces
Before diving into the treasure hunt at the Flea Market, start your morning like a true local: with a good coffee and a fresh pastry.
Here are three tried-and-true spots for breakfast before the market opens (at 10 AM):
1) Le Voltaire – the café for regulars
Located near the Vernaison market, this neighbourhood bistro attracts both early-rising dealers and wanderers looking for a real Parisian coffee.
Here, you order a strong espresso and a croissant, and watch the neighbourhood wake up.
📍 116 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen
2) La Recyclerie – for an ethical breakfast
Housed in a former train station at Porte de Clignancourt, La Recyclerie is a green oasis in the heart of the city.
You can enjoy homemade granola, fresh juice or locally roasted coffee in a warm, bohemian setting.
The place is built around zero waste, homemade recipes and conviviality : perfect for a gentle start before wandering the markets.
📍 83 boulevard Ornano, Paris 18th
3) Boulom – between bakery and gourmet brasserie
For those who like to start strong, Boulom (a contraction of “BOULangerie” and “rOOM”) offers a generous and creative breakfast buffet.
Crispy pastries, fresh fruit, warm bread and scrambled eggs : everything is homemade in a friendly, contemporary setting.
An excellent spot to fuel up before exploring the markets.
📍 181 rue Ordener, Paris 18th
10:00 AM – Wandering the Alleys of the Saint-Ouen Flea Market
It’s ten o’clock and the atmosphere is already buzzing !
Metal shutters rise, vendors set up their stalls and the first visitors stroll through the aisles with a coffee in hand.
Welcome to the largest antiques market in the world! A place where art lovers, casual browsers and curious travellers cross paths.
Les Puces is a true labyrinth of more than 2,000 stalls spread across 11 distinct markets, each with its own atmosphere:
- Vernaison – the oldest, with its picturesque lanes and vintage flea-market spirit. Perfect for finding retro toys or old advertising posters.
- Paul Bert and Serpette – the stars of the place: an unmissable duo, renowned worldwide for design furniture, 20th-century objects and collectible pieces.
- Biron – the elegant and historic market, a temple of high-end antiques and refined artwork.
- Dauphine – housed in a modern two-storey hall, mixing contemporary art, vinyls, vintage fashion and photography.
- Jules Vallès – more popular and affordable, offering old furniture, books, records and curiosities at friendly prices.
- Malassis – perfect for fans of contemporary art and unusual collector items.
- Cambo, Antica and Le Passage – more confidential spaces where connoisseurs love to wander in search of a unique piece.
- L’Usine – a must for lovers of industrial furniture and raw, utilitarian objects.
A true city within the city !
You move from a shop that looks like a museum to a stall overflowing with improbable treasures, from a refined antiques dealer to a vendor of vintage postcards.
The atmosphere is joyfully eclectic : the smell of wax, the sound of clinking cups, chatter and the laughter of regulars.
1:00 PM – Lunch break around the Puces
After a few hours of treasure hunting, it’s time for a break.
Luckily, the area around the Flea Market is full of great places to grab a bite or simply soak up the lively neighbourhood vibe.
1) Ma Cocotte – the chic, industrial must-visit
You can’t talk about Les Puces without mentioning Ma Cocotte, the designer brasserie imagined by Philippe Starck, in the heart of the Paul Bert market.
It’s the hangout for stylish treasure hunters and lovers of generous brunches.
Here, you can enjoy modern French cuisine in a chic yet laid-back setting, with exposed brick and large windows overlooking the aisles.
Perfect for a late brunch, a quick lunch or just a coffee between finds.
📍 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen (steps from the Paul Bert Serpette market)
2) Le Paul Bert – the authentic Parisian brasserie
If you prefer old-school bistro charm, head to Le Paul Bert, a neighbourhood institution.
The charm works instantly: red banquettes, aged mirrors, zinc bar, servers in aprons…
People come here as much for a morning coffee as for a simple, tasty daily special.
It’s also one of the best places to watch market life unfold from the terrace.
📍 20 rue Paul Bert, Saint-Ouen
3) L’Insurgé – the wine bistro full of character
Tucked inside the Paul Bert market, L’Insurgé is a lovely surprise for food lovers and fans of well-chosen wines.
The chef offers a short menu that changes with the seasons : fresh dishes, lunch menus and vegetarian options.
At lunchtime, it’s great for a friendly, well-prepared meal; in the evening, for sharing a board and a glass of wine in a relaxed atmosphere.
📍 96 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen
4) Chez Tata Biron – the local, bistronomic address
At the entrance of the Biron market, this warm café-restaurant is perfect for those who enjoy simple, sincere cuisine.
Chez Tata Biron (formerly Chez Arnaud) offers homemade dishes prepared from fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from small producers.
Whether it’s a tasty daily special, a quick snack or a homemade sandwich, everything here feels authentic.
And to go with it ? Craft beers and local ice cream.
📍 85 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen
3:00 PM – Exploring the Area : Street Art, Shops and Local Discoveries
After lunch, it’s time for a stroll !
Around the Flea Market, art and creativity overflow onto the streets.
Just a few steps take you from antiques to giant murals, from objects of the past to today’s trends.
1) Street Art and open-air galleries
On warehouse façades, wooden fences or around a street corner, street art pieces burst with colour and energy.
Some make you smile, others make you think, but all tell a story about the neighbourhood : its creativity, its boldness and its popular soul.
Artists like Jef Aérosol, FKDL, Speedy Graphito and Invader have left their mark here, turning the streets into a living museum.
After lunch, let curiosity be your guide or join one of the “Street Art at the Puces” guided tours organised by local associations.
It’s a unique (and fascinating) way to explore the area through the artworks and the stories of the people who bring it to life.
And if you even more curious, don’t miss rue Jules Vallès and passage Biron, two favourite spots for photographers and street-art enthusiasts.
2) Vintage shops and concept stores
Around the markets, several independent boutiques ride the neighbourhood’s retro and artistic spirit.
You’ll find fashion designers, thrift shops, contemporary galleries and even concept stores mixing design, décor and second-hand pieces.
3) A quiet break before heading out
Before leaving the area, take a moment to unwind.
Just a few steps from the markets, Square Marmottan offers a leafy pause, perfect for resting a few minutes before continuing your Paris explorations.
On Sundays, the atmosphere around the Puces is particularly lively, with musicians, street stalls and an irresistible bohemian vibe.
For us, it’s the best time to explore the neighbourhood.
Conclusion – A morning at the Saint-Ouen flea market, between authenticity and « art de vivre »
With its unique atmosphere, hidden treasures and vibrant neighbourhood life, the Saint-Ouen Flea Market is more than just a shopping spot : it’s a true Parisian experience.
You come to shop, of course, but you stay for the ambiance : a blend of history, warmth and creativity you won’t find anywhere else.
In just one morning, you’ll travel through different eras, taste local cuisine, discover open-air street art and meet passionate people who keep the neighbourhood’s heart beating.
And if you’re staying in a Top Hôte apartment in Saint-Ouen, Saint-Denis or La Villette, everything is just steps away: markets, cafés, colourful streets and that unmistakable Puces energy.
So next time you’re in Paris, skip the big boulevards for a morning.
Take the time to experience the city differently because it’s often here, between two stalls or over a coffee, that you’ll find the real Paris.
Useful Information: Address: Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt, 75018 Paris Opening hours: Saturday & Sunday 10 AM–6 PM, Monday 11 AM–5 PM Access: Metro Porte de Clignancourt (line 4)
Une journée au Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen
